Odzaberd, whose name means "Serpent's Fortress," crowns a hilltop above the south-eastern shore of Lake Sevan, just east of the village of Tsovinar in the Gegharkunik region. Standing at almost 1,900 metres, it is one of the most evocative ancient sites around the lake – and one of the least visited.
The fortress began as a city of the ancient kingdom of Urartu, founded by King Rusa I between 735 and 713 BC and dedicated to the storm god Teisheba. This place is the best-preserved ancient fortress near Lake Sevan. It still has massive stone walls, gates, and foundations that show exactly where the old city used to be.
At the bottom of the hill, there is an ancient stone carving made by King Rusa I. The inscription says he conquered 23 different lands, and it includes what historians think is the oldest written mention of the name "Sevan."
The fortress's later history reads like a legend. In medieval times a local lord rebuilt the ancient walls and renamed the site Ishkanaberd, the "Lord's Fortress."
According to local legend, a massive drama ruined this fortress.
It started with a secret love affair that made two powerful lords hate each other. Even though everyone thought the fortress was impossible to break into, the rival lord managed to attack and destroy it. As he wiped it out, he cursed the place, saying: "Nothing shall live here except snakes and scorpions."
Because of that curse, the ruins got the name they still have today: Odzaberd (which means "Snake Fortress").
Reaching the ruins takes a short climb, rewarded by sweeping views over the water and a real sense of stepping into Armenia's deep, pre-Christian past. The site pairs naturally with other highlights of the southern lake, such as the secluded Makenyats Vank, the famous khachkar field at Noratus cemetery and the cliff-top Sevanavank. If you would like to explore the area with a guide, you can find the best tours to Gegharkunik on our tours page.
